Saturday, July 7, 2012

Glacier National Park

We had a good plan.  After talking to some people at dinner the night before, we decided to leave Columbia Falls about 6:00AM to get through Glacier National Park on the Going to the Sun Road before the crowds got there.  It was about a twenty minute ride to the park, and we needed to get some breakfast beforehand.

Everything was going as planned, and it was a brisk and windy for the 5 miles to Hungry Horse and the restaurant we scoped out the night before.  The problem was that they were not yet open.  We rode the rest of the way to the park and found a place that was to open at 7:00.  We spent the 15 minutes or so before that talking to someone else who was waiting (who just happened to be from Marietta, Ohio).  It would be the first of several times we would cross paths with him and his wife during the day. 

The ride through the park was pretty much the same as I recorded on my last trip through two years ago, so I will keep this shorter by not re-hashing that.  There were a couple of changes to the scenery from the previous trip.  The most significant: LOTS OF SNOW.  At Logan Pass, I took pictures of the surrounding area while standing on about three feet of snow.  With all of the snow still melting, the waterflow int the park was much greater than my last trip.  For instance, the weeping wall was a gusher this time around!

We spent the second half of the day looking for a place to stay for the evening.  This being a holiday week, we have been finding it difficult to succeed in that area.  Even the campgrounds fill up quickly.  Tomorrow should bring an end to that as I believe that many folks will be heading home to begin their work week on Monday.

We ended the day at the Days Inn in Great Falls, Montana.  We head to Red Lodge in the morning and follow that with a trip over the Beartooth Highway...

Friday, July 6, 2012

I Really Was There

The route today was US-2 from Airway Heights, WA just west of Spokane to Columbia Falls, MT.  This will put us 15 miles from the entrance to Glacier National Park in West Glacier.  It was another cool morning, so I rode in all leathers.  US-2 run right through the city center, so there was some concern about getting through Spokane during rush hour.  The only thing that held us up were the traffic lights, as traffic was fairly light.

We actually headed north for about 30 miles out of Spokane before heading east.  The last town in Washington heading east.  Guess what?  No state sign.  Bummer!  But, I really did ride 1+ days in the state. Just ask Mr. Wilson...

The ride was pretty much what had been experienced over the last few days when we rode through the forests.  Stands of pines along side of the road and surrounding hills for much of the route.  The portion trough the panhandle of Idaho went quickly, as we were in Montana before we knew it.  We stopped just east of Troy, Montana to take a hike along the Kootenai River to take a hike down to the Kootenai Falls, which was worth the effort.  Looked like a good place to do some rafting, but I think this section of the river is not permitted.

After a not so quick bite to eat at the Libby Cafe (recommended, not for the food as much as the help), we finished the ride into Columbia Falls.  The town is bigger than I thought, and it was a good thing that we made reservations.  I think that pretty much anything close to the park, campground or hotel, is sold out.

It was a long day from Point A to point B, not for the miles we logged, but because of our stops.  Tomorrow looks to be much the same...

Bagging Number 49


We left Cascade Locks via the Bridge of the Gods, which is a grated toll bridge that leads into Stevenson, Washington.  I was unable to grab a picture of the state sign, since the end of the bridge ended at WA-14, a 55MPH state highway.  the sign was plastered on a concrete barrier at the edge of the westbound lanes.  Too risky, and I still have the Washington/Idaho border to try and catch that later...

WA-14 runs along the northern shore of the Columbia River for about the same length as I-84 on the south side.  We rode it until it intersected with US-97 about 60 miles up river.  It started off very scenic, running through stands of pine and tunnels through rock where the cliffs reached the river.  After about 20 miles, the trees disappeared; not gradually, but like a switch was thrown and the trees were gone.  I thought maybe fire had destroyed what was there originally, but there was no sign of that.

We headed north on US-97 to the intersection of US-2, north of Yakima.  This section of road offered all types of landscapes.  We started climbing immediately after heading north, past wind farms on barren hills.  The climb offered some nice sweeps all the way into Goldendale, WA.  A nice vista was had right before we entered town, as we were able to see the four snow-capped mountains (volcanoes) all at once - Mt Hood, Mt St Helens (what is left of it), Mt Adams, Mt Rainier.  Really cool...

We climbed again out of Goldendale, past pines on the hills to our right, which became bare again as we descended into the Yakima valley. Wapato, consisting of fruit farms, is the first town you come across in the valley.  This being the day after Independence Day, fireworks trash covered every street corner along US-97.  Must have missed one hell of a party!  At Yakima, US-97 runs with I-82 for about 40 miles, and then 5 miles of I-90.  Once of off the interstate, the route climbs again into the Cascades.  Here, the pines were tall and the air was cool.  It wound its way up and down hills into the Wenatchee National Forest.  So far, the best segment on this route, if not this trip, with the last 30 or so miles seemingly to head downhill.

It was about 1:00 local time by the time we hit Cashmere, which is where this day was supposed to end.  Over lunch, we decided to stretch the day and try to get as close to Glacier National Park over the next couple of days so we can start the Going to the Sun Road as early as possible.

We headed east on US-2 towards Spokane, thinking we could find a place to stop along the way.  One thing that we finally realized, as we cruised past fields of wheat and rapeseed, is that there is nothing between Cashmere and Spokane besides fields of wheat and rapeseed, so we ended the day just west of Spokane...

Should be any easy ride into Montana tomorrow...

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Exploring the Gorge on Independence Day

I woke up early again today.  Like 3:30 AM early.  Not because that was the plan, but because the temperature was hovering around 40 degrees on the morning after we were finally able to break out the tents.  My sleeping bag is only rated at 40 degrees, which means I probably should not use it for anything under 60.  I struggled to stay warm and doze until about 5:00, and decided it was time to take a nice long, warm shower.

Ken was already packed up and ready to go, so I threw everything on the bike as quickly as I could and we were off.  After a quick breakfast, it was a fast 170 miles to our next destination.  The mileage for the day kept decreasing as we we able to add extra mileage during the days before.  The ride today will mark the last day of the outbound rides that were planned to be entirely interstate...

With about 100 miles left on the route to Cascade Locks, we hit the Columbia River at Blalock Canyon.  Here, and later at Philippi Canyon, the river had eroded the landscape over time.  The canyons were marked by sheer rock walls and, at times, it felt as if I could hold out both arms and scrape the canyon walls with my left hand while testing the river water's temperature with my right.  We fallowed right along the water's edge for most of the next 60 miles.  At one point during this leg, we rounded a bend at John Day Dam and were greeted with a spectacular view of the snow covered Mt. Hood in the distance.  It was a scene that would play out many times during the ride...

As we closed in on our destination, the Columbia River cuts through the Cascade Mountain range.  The slopes on the Oregon and Washington sides of the river are not as steep, and they began to fill with evergreens.  By the time we hit Cascade Lakes, the slopes were covered by this vegetation.

We found a campsite for the night and quickly put up our tents, then we were off to explorer the area.  No deadlines and no destination...  We it historic US-30 heading west towards Portland, where we were greeted by huge crowds and some awesome scenery.  Horsetails Falls, Multnomah Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, among others.  The Last gem on the route was the Vista House, which lent a birds-eye view of the Columbia River Gorge basin.

Tomorrow, we begin our days on the back roads of the northwest.  Pictures later...

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

One to Go - July 3

Left today Tremonton at 7:15, under blue skies and cruised I-84 literally by ourselves.  In the first 60 miles or so we had remaining in Utah, we passed three semis and had two SUVs pass us.  It was a leather jacket/heated handgrip ride for me, and I wished I had put on the chaps before we left, as the temperature was in the lower 60s to start.  As it would turn out, we ended up riding in jackets all day...

We no sooner crossed into Idaho, and I see sign that read 'Occasional High Winds Next 19 Miles' atop of another sign that read 'Frequent Blinding Dust Storms.  Do not Stop'.  Fantastic!  What are you supposed to do in a blinding dust storm?  Keep on going?  I don't want to be the person who came up with that line...

I looked into the distance, and it did look like some sort of dust storm on the horizon.  Either that or some smoke from a far-out wild fire...  I slowed a bit to take a few pictures when it hit me.  A 50 or 60 MPH gust of wind that moved me clear to the other side of the lane in a split second.  I grabbed the bars and held on for a white-knuckle ride for the next three or four hours, with a breakfast sandwiched in.  The wind was strong the entire route through Idaho, and we didn't see a reprieve from it until we were well north of Boise.

We stopped for a bite to eat in Baker City, which was where our day was slated to end.  It was just 1:00 local time, since we had just moved into Pacific Daylight time zone.  We decided to put in another 100 miles to Pendleton, Oregon leaving us with just about 170 miles for the morning ride to the Columbia River Gorge in the morning.  We need some time out of the saddle and enjoy some of the scenery.  The gorge is a perfect place to do that on this trip after a +500 mile day today.

I didn't mention that we did move into Oregon today.  One down, one to go...

Entering Oregon (pause at 19 seconds)

Over the Rockies

We have been sticking to the strategy of starting the day early so that we will avoid the hottest part of the day. We were all packed up and headed out of Laramie at 5:45AM. The sun was just starting to peek out of the horizon and the temperature was hovering around sixty. By 8:00 local, we had full bellies and over 100 miles behind us. The next 100 miles seemed to go by just as quick, and they were covered still wearing our jackets.

The route this day has definitely been the best as far as scenery. We were basically heading out of the Rockies and were losing altitude for much of the last part of the ride. I did glimpse at the first section of the route on a AAA map that I had tucked in the saddlebag, and it was rated a green-dot route by them. It surely didn't disappoint as the long, straight asphalt of the past few days began to wind and descend through the foothills. The first 80 miles or so were unspoilt by any billboards and our early departure tended to give us a relief on the traffic, sans a few semis.

I have been out to our western states on 5 or 6 others occasions, but this was the first time I had taken I-80. This route is now my personal favorite fo getting out west quickly. I've been out I-70, but the stretch though Kansas is just unbearable. I followed the od US-66 twice, which mimics I-40/I-44. While nice, that route does not lend itself to getting out west quickly. I have only been on I-90 heading east, but it was mostly a boring ride. That could be because I as heading home if I was heading east and the was a certain amount of dis-interest in the road. I may have to take that route outbound once to have a conclusive opinion, but I sure give a thumbs up on I-80 if traveling a freeway is required.

The best part of the route today had to be I-84, from the intersection of I-80 and east (really north) through Morgan County, Utah. If you look on a map, it looks to be fairly straight through the Monte Cristo Range. It is anything but. Before we hit Ogden,Utah, we were treating to a series of rises and bends and dips for about 8 miles that I have never seen on an interstate back home. There may be fewer roads to ride in this state, but the roads that they have may be real hard to beat!.

We were supposed to end the day in Ogden but, to beat much of the traffic tomorrow, we headed north another 30 miles or so to Tremonton, Utah were I-84 and I-15 split. We pulled in at about 3:00 local time after +420 miles. I almost felt embarrased... We could have gone another couple of hundred, but then we would end up back home too soon. I just have to figure out how to make leaving earlier in the day than I am accustomed to work for us better, although the hot days should be ending soon. Maybe over the next days, we can leave a few hours laters...

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Through America's Heartland

Hotels.com sucks!!  More on that later...

It has been all interstate since we left on Friday.  Saturday, we left our hotel in Galesburg, Illinois at 6:30AM so that we could get as many miles behind us before the heat of the day.  It had rained the night before, and it was still trying to get us wet right after we saddled up.  Out of Galesburg, I-74 heads north until it's junction with I-80.  As we traveled this section I could see rain to our west. As we crossed the Mississippi River at Bettendorf, Iowa it was within a few miles of us.  We pulled to the side of the road at the next exit, donned our rain gear, and headed out again.

Not one drop of rain fell on us.  That rain suit is the best thing that I have ever bought for motorcycling.  I can't remember the last time it rained on me when I had it on.  I only seem to get wet whenever I have left it at home during a ride.

The strategy of leaving early paid off for us.  Until our rain gear came out, we were both riding in jackets with the temperature in the upper 60s, and had about 130 miles behind us before we were in short sleeves again.  By 10:00 it was already hot, and I thought we were in for another long day, but the temperature didn't climb much more from there.  The air temperature was a good ten degrees lower than Friday.  There wasn't as much wind, either...

The rolling hills of the Iowa plains led us to the flat, parched plains of Nebraska and we were making good time.  I noticed that it looks like the corn crop is going to suffer this year.  Isn't it suppose to be 'knee-high by the Fourth of July'?  The crop in much of Nebraska needs some serious help to get there...


Iowa Plains

Ken did have a couple of personal milestones set on Saturday:  His long day in the saddle.  We pulled into Kearney, Nebraska for the evening at 6:30 PM.  He had never been on a ride that lasted 12 hours before.  He also manage to ride the most miles in a day, over 550 miles.  Yay, Ken!  Half of an Iron Butt!!

The long day on Saturday set us up for what was supposed to be a nice, easy day into Cheyenne, Wyoming on a ride of just 316 miles.  The plan was to finish the ride by early afternoon, relax a bit by the hotel pool, and then check out Cheyenne later in the day.  It started out just as planned, but it fell apart pretty quick.

At our first gas stop, Ken found himself bleeding profusely from his left pinkie finger.  Either he was being honest when he said that he didn't no what happened, or he doesn't want me blogging about it but believe me, the was blood everywhere.  A square gauze pad and three strips of duct tape and he was good as new!

Nebraska Plains

The ride out of Kearney was pretty awesome.  Except for the last 50 miles or so, the landscape in western Nebraska is completely void of trees.  Other than a few cedar bushes here and there.  Wheat fields (I believe) for as far as the eye can see and, considering it is also completely flat, that is a long way.  As you approach the Wyoming border, you begin to pick up altitude and the landscape changes quite a bit.  The wind also began to pick up here as well.

Forty miles after entering Wyoming, we were in Cheyenne and found a hotel with a pool by 1:00.  The day was going just as planned, until...  The room wasn't ready yet.  OK, so we go the Eagle's Nest, hit the local pub with 'the coldest beer in town' according to the lady checking us in.  She'll call when the room is ready.  By 3:00, we decided that they must have forgotten to call, right.  I mean, I spend maybe a couple of hours a year cleaning my house.  Surely they could clean one room in a couple of hours.  Back at the hotel, I check the room and they hadn't even started.  I asked when it might be ready.  Ten minutes, they tell me.  I ask again at 3:30.  They call some help to the front desk and tell them to start cleaning it.  I couldn't bite my tongue any longer.  After the resulting conversation, I didn't feel I could show my face there any more.  That is where Hotels.com comes in...

I reserve a 2-1/2 star hotel in Laramie, Wyoming 45 miles to the west, we hop back on the bikes and knock those miles off of Monday's route.  I pulled into the Ramada Inn on the west side of Laramie certain that I was at the wrong place.  I knew as much when the people checking in before me were quoted a rate of $49.99 when I had paid $79.99.  Unfortunately, I was wrong.  I could have gotten the $49.99 had I walked in off of the street , but since I paid for the reservation through Hotels.com, I get to pay $79.99 to stay in an absolute dump.  Bastards wouldn't even let me cancel the reservation.  I am sure that Hotel.com Customer Service will post the recording of my phone call to them.  Search for it on the Internet soon.  It is a gem!

One more hot day, then things look to cool down.  After a 387 mile day on Sunday, we'll travel nearly as many before we arrive in Ogden, Utah on Monday.

Friday, June 29, 2012

Departure Day

Well, that plan didn't work out very well.  I decided I was going to start this journey about a month and a half earlier than the past two years to avoid the heat.  It didn't work, since I began the trip on the second hottest day of the year.

It didn't make for a very pleasant ride.  I met up with Ken in St. Leon after finishing up some things at work this morning.  We were on the road by 11:30, and the ride was pretty uneventful.  All interstate.  And hot.

After meanadering along the cornfields through Indiana, we got to meander through some soybean fields in Illinois.  See, aren't you glad now that you decided to follow this blog?

The weather did provide us with a little bit of excitement.  We had just crossed into Illinois, and as I passed a semi to my right I was smacked with a large raindrop to the right side of my face.  It was either that, or the trucker hit me with a lugie just as I passed.  I am going to go with raindrop.  It was cool and refreshing, smacked me right on the cheek.

Then, after about another ten miles or so the winds picked up.  Soon, the temperature dropped about 15 degrees.  I looked to the south and it  was raining.  I looked to the north and it was raining.  I thought we might have a nice refreshing downpour to ride through to cool things down.  We ended up riding through a storm front without another drop of rain.  We get through the front and the sun starts beating down on us just like before.  Only now, it is humid as hell.

But, I tend to look at things on the positive side.  It could have been worse.  I could have been riding through the heat and humidy after I soiled my pants.  Yep, I am sure that would have been worse.  Or I could not have been riding at all.  That would have really stunk.

Overall, it was a good day on where we ended up. 350 miles under our belt on Friday when the original plan didn't have us leaving until Saturday.  Looking to get in about 450 miles or so tomorrow and planning on being on the road early to get as many miles as we can behind us before the sun gets too high in the sky.

For now, I am off to the heated indoor pool at the hotel.  I need to rinse that raindrop off of my face, just in case...

Friday, June 22, 2012

Knocking Out the Last Two

Up until this point, I have ridden my motorcycle in every one of the 48 contiguous states (plus Alaska) with the exception of Oregon and Washington.  I plan to complete the goal of riding in every state except Hawaii in 2012.  Ken Wilson, a veteran of my rides over the last two years, has plans to join me.

The first part of the trip will be uneventful, as we will have to hop on the interstate and ride nearly 2250 miles over five or six days in order to get to the Columbia River Gorge, which runs along Oregons northern border with the state of Washington.  Then, it will 7 or eight days of riding some awesome motorcycling roads through some of the most beautiful places in our western states.  The last three or so days on the trip will be interstate again as we wrap things up and head for home.

We will visit the Grand Coulee Dam in Washington and the Hungry Horse Dam in Montana.  The Going to the Sun Road through Glacier National Park, which finally opened on June 18 after 35+ inches of snow that fell after Memorial Day, should prove to be a fantastic ride and I am hoping that much of that snow still blankets the slopes along the road as we pass through.  We'll stay in Montana to ride the famous Beartooth Highway, a route we took two years ago although this time we'll head over the 10,500 foot pass in the opposite direction we took back then.

From there, we will head into Cody, WY over the Chief Joseph Highway, a highly rated scenic byway.  After hanging out where Buffalo Bill Cody called home for a few hours, we head east on US-14 through the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming.  The last of the scenic routes will take us into the Black Hills of South Dakota where we will enjoy some awesome roads without all of the crowds that the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally brings.

That is where to road trip really ends, although we will still need to hit the interstate for about 3 days until we arrive home.  There will be, hopefully, enough time to stop and vist the Harley-Davidson Museum in Milwaukee before I have to be back at the desk in my office later in July.

5300+ miles of smiles...

Are You Crazy?

That has been the number one question I receive whenever I tell someone (and I WILL tell anyone who wants to listen) about the annual road trips I have taken on my Harley since 2002.  I guess if you are asking, you wouldn't understand.  But, I'll try to articulate as best as I can and maybe you'll start to get a grasp on why I indulge in such 'crazy' adventures...

It all started back in 1990, when my brother had asked me to drive him out to the repair shop so that he could retrieve his 1985 Softtail Classic that had undergone, I am assuming here, some sort of repair.
"Sure", I replied.  "But what is a Softtail Classic?"
I had never thought much about motorcycling and never really had an opportunity to ride before, other than jumping hills in back of our house on a friend's 125 Kawasaki enduro when I was growing up.  That was a good fifteen years prior to that trip to the repair shop with my brother and, after a failed attempt at earning a college degree followed by a 4-year stint in the US Navy, any itch I had for riding an 800-pound, 2-wheeled vehicle had long been left unscratched.

But something happened as I watched my brother strap on his helmet (he was, afterall, riding over to mom's house) and throw his leg over the saddle of his newly fixed Softtail Classic.  As I followed him down an old country road, my mind began to wander.  I thought about the sensations that he must be experiencing.  I wondered if he was smiling.  As soon as he finished his ride, I asked him to help me find a used bike so I could determine if riding was something I could enjoy.  Two weeks later, I was the proud owner of a 1971 XLCH Sportster model.

Had I stuck with riding the Sportster for too long, I don't think that I would be writing this today.  The motor is bolted directly to the frame and every time I went for a ride, a screw or two would vibrate loose and pieces would start flying of off the bike.  If I rode too long, the fillings in the back of my mouth would start to fall out.  It was a kick-start only and most times the bike would kick back.  And, although the 'H' in XLCH stood for 'high performance', there wasn't much performance at all in this bike.  It certainly wasn't the type of bike that I would think about taking on a very long road trip.

In 2001, I upgraded my ride to a 1999 FLHR Road King.  That is when riding took on a whole new meaning for me.  I began to set a week or two or three aside each year to set out to some destination.  My first ride was to the northeast, and was really just a search for a long lost love of mine.  While the girl wasn't found, I did find a new love.  Long distance riding.  Something about getting on some lonely country road to anywhere, with nothing but your thoughts and beautiful scenery for hours on end really did appeal to me.  With the exception of 2005, over the next ten years I would seek out a destination and head out with my camping gear strapped to the Road King and, later, a new Electra Glide Ultra Classic.

At first, I was going solo.  Not because I was being antisocial; it is hard to be antisocial on a cross country trek on a motorcycle.  It is amazing to me how so many people are interested in the trips I have taken.  Complete strangers are willing to make you a breakfast, serve you a cup of coffee, or even lend you a spare bedroom in exchange for hearing your story.  Other bikers offer up their favorite routes as you ride through their neck of the woods.  You would have to try real hard to be antisocial on a bike.  The reason I started riding these trips alone is really quite simple.  Those who I have ridden with locally all thought I was crazy!

Eventually one, then two, then more riders decided they would join me.  While I do enjoy the solo trips, I think that having others travel with you is much more rewarding.  I think that has something to do with the camaraderie that bikers have.  You have someone to share the memories with and believe me, when the snow is deep in the winter, reminiscing about the road trip you took a few years back really does ease the depression.

Most years, I begin planning the year's trip in January.  I usually pick a destination that has some sort of historical or geologically significance and then determine how to get there, preferably on the back roads.  Throw in some research on the areas that will be travelled and before I know it, I have spent an inordinate amount of time planning a trip and then begin building a large amount of anticipation.  I find the entire cycle a bit curious, since I never really had much of a desire for history when I was growing up.  Now, I can't seem to get enough of it.  Go figure...

Add to the mix that we have an absolutely beautiful country!  You can summit mountains at over 12,000 feet in the Rocky Mountains National Park and cruise inches above the water on your way to Key West, Florida.  There is nothing prettier than riding into the sunset (or sunrise) over the prairies in the high plains of Iowa or the high coastal cliffs along the shores in Maine.  Riding past cacti or petrified trees through the tortured deserts in the southwest is awe-inspiring.  Sure, you can do all of that in an automobile with climate control.  But, there is so much that you'll miss if you do.  You never smell the salt air along the coast the way you will on a motorcycle.  You won't feel the temperature swings as you round the back side of a mountain pass.  You have a 180-degree, unobstructed view of what this country has to offer.  And you will never feel the fatigue that comes with riding in an enclosed vehicle.

So, that is why I have chosen to spend my annual vacation days in the saddle of my Harley.  I love putting on the leathers for a ride in the crisp morning air and start peeling away layers as the rays of sunlight warm my skin.  Generally, from sun up until sundown I ride.  For days on end.

Yes, I am crazy.  I am crazy about the joy that my motorcycle gives me!