We had a good plan. After talking to some people at dinner the night before, we decided to leave Columbia Falls about 6:00AM to get through Glacier National Park on the Going to the Sun Road before the crowds got there. It was about a twenty minute ride to the park, and we needed to get some breakfast beforehand.
Everything was going as planned, and it was a brisk and windy for the 5 miles to Hungry Horse and the restaurant we scoped out the night before. The problem was that they were not yet open. We rode the rest of the way to the park and found a place that was to open at 7:00. We spent the 15 minutes or so before that talking to someone else who was waiting (who just happened to be from Marietta, Ohio). It would be the first of several times we would cross paths with him and his wife during the day.
The ride through the park was pretty much the same as I recorded on my last trip through two years ago, so I will keep this shorter by not re-hashing that. There were a couple of changes to the scenery from the previous trip. The most significant: LOTS OF SNOW. At Logan Pass, I took pictures of the surrounding area while standing on about three feet of snow. With all of the snow still melting, the waterflow int the park was much greater than my last trip. For instance, the weeping wall was a gusher this time around!
We spent the second half of the day looking for a place to stay for the evening. This being a holiday week, we have been finding it difficult to succeed in that area. Even the campgrounds fill up quickly. Tomorrow should bring an end to that as I believe that many folks will be heading home to begin their work week on Monday.
We ended the day at the Days Inn in Great Falls, Montana. We head to Red Lodge in the morning and follow that with a trip over the Beartooth Highway...
I journey along the last 150 or so miles of the same trek that Lewis and Clark took back in 1806 in their quest to find a passage to the Pacific Ocean. But no canoe, or Sacagawea for that matter, for me. In all honesty, I bet both Lewis and Clark wished they were born at least 100 years later so that they could go the way I intend: On my Harley!
Saturday, July 7, 2012
Friday, July 6, 2012
I Really Was There
The route today was US-2 from Airway Heights, WA just west of Spokane to Columbia Falls, MT. This will put us 15 miles from the entrance to Glacier National Park in West Glacier. It was another cool morning, so I rode in all leathers. US-2 run right through the city center, so there was some concern about getting through Spokane during rush hour. The only thing that held us up were the traffic lights, as traffic was fairly light.
We actually headed north for about 30 miles out of Spokane before heading east. The last town in Washington heading east. Guess what? No state sign. Bummer! But, I really did ride 1+ days in the state. Just ask Mr. Wilson...
The ride was pretty much what had been experienced over the last few days when we rode through the forests. Stands of pines along side of the road and surrounding hills for much of the route. The portion trough the panhandle of Idaho went quickly, as we were in Montana before we knew it. We stopped just east of Troy, Montana to take a hike along the Kootenai River to take a hike down to the Kootenai Falls, which was worth the effort. Looked like a good place to do some rafting, but I think this section of the river is not permitted.
After a not so quick bite to eat at the Libby Cafe (recommended, not for the food as much as the help), we finished the ride into Columbia Falls. The town is bigger than I thought, and it was a good thing that we made reservations. I think that pretty much anything close to the park, campground or hotel, is sold out.
It was a long day from Point A to point B, not for the miles we logged, but because of our stops. Tomorrow looks to be much the same...
We actually headed north for about 30 miles out of Spokane before heading east. The last town in Washington heading east. Guess what? No state sign. Bummer! But, I really did ride 1+ days in the state. Just ask Mr. Wilson...
The ride was pretty much what had been experienced over the last few days when we rode through the forests. Stands of pines along side of the road and surrounding hills for much of the route. The portion trough the panhandle of Idaho went quickly, as we were in Montana before we knew it. We stopped just east of Troy, Montana to take a hike along the Kootenai River to take a hike down to the Kootenai Falls, which was worth the effort. Looked like a good place to do some rafting, but I think this section of the river is not permitted.
After a not so quick bite to eat at the Libby Cafe (recommended, not for the food as much as the help), we finished the ride into Columbia Falls. The town is bigger than I thought, and it was a good thing that we made reservations. I think that pretty much anything close to the park, campground or hotel, is sold out.
It was a long day from Point A to point B, not for the miles we logged, but because of our stops. Tomorrow looks to be much the same...
Bagging Number 49
We left Cascade Locks via the Bridge of the Gods, which is a grated toll bridge that leads into Stevenson, Washington. I was unable to grab a picture of the state sign, since the end of the bridge ended at WA-14, a 55MPH state highway. the sign was plastered on a concrete barrier at the edge of the westbound lanes. Too risky, and I still have the Washington/Idaho border to try and catch that later...
WA-14 runs along the northern shore of the Columbia River for about the same length as I-84 on the south side. We rode it until it intersected with US-97 about 60 miles up river. It started off very scenic, running through stands of pine and tunnels through rock where the cliffs reached the river. After about 20 miles, the trees disappeared; not gradually, but like a switch was thrown and the trees were gone. I thought maybe fire had destroyed what was there originally, but there was no sign of that.
We headed north on US-97 to the intersection of US-2, north of Yakima. This section of road offered all types of landscapes. We started climbing immediately after heading north, past wind farms on barren hills. The climb offered some nice sweeps all the way into Goldendale, WA. A nice vista was had right before we entered town, as we were able to see the four snow-capped mountains (volcanoes) all at once - Mt Hood, Mt St Helens (what is left of it), Mt Adams, Mt Rainier. Really cool...
We climbed again out of Goldendale, past pines on the hills to our right, which became bare again as we descended into the Yakima valley. Wapato, consisting of fruit farms, is the first town you come across in the valley. This being the day after Independence Day, fireworks trash covered every street corner along US-97. Must have missed one hell of a party! At Yakima, US-97 runs with I-82 for about 40 miles, and then 5 miles of I-90. Once of off the interstate, the route climbs again into the Cascades. Here, the pines were tall and the air was cool. It wound its way up and down hills into the Wenatchee National Forest. So far, the best segment on this route, if not this trip, with the last 30 or so miles seemingly to head downhill.
It was about 1:00 local time by the time we hit Cashmere, which is where this day was supposed to end. Over lunch, we decided to stretch the day and try to get as close to Glacier National Park over the next couple of days so we can start the Going to the Sun Road as early as possible.
We headed east on US-2 towards Spokane, thinking we could find a place to stop along the way. One thing that we finally realized, as we cruised past fields of wheat and rapeseed, is that there is nothing between Cashmere and Spokane besides fields of wheat and rapeseed, so we ended the day just west of Spokane...
Should be any easy ride into Montana tomorrow...
Wednesday, July 4, 2012
Exploring the Gorge on Independence Day
I woke up early again today. Like 3:30 AM early. Not because that was the plan, but because the temperature was hovering around 40 degrees on the morning after we were finally able to break out the tents. My sleeping bag is only rated at 40 degrees, which means I probably should not use it for anything under 60. I struggled to stay warm and doze until about 5:00, and decided it was time to take a nice long, warm shower.
Ken was already packed up and ready to go, so I threw everything on the bike as quickly as I could and we were off. After a quick breakfast, it was a fast 170 miles to our next destination. The mileage for the day kept decreasing as we we able to add extra mileage during the days before. The ride today will mark the last day of the outbound rides that were planned to be entirely interstate...
With about 100 miles left on the route to Cascade Locks, we hit the Columbia River at Blalock Canyon. Here, and later at Philippi Canyon, the river had eroded the landscape over time. The canyons were marked by sheer rock walls and, at times, it felt as if I could hold out both arms and scrape the canyon walls with my left hand while testing the river water's temperature with my right. We fallowed right along the water's edge for most of the next 60 miles. At one point during this leg, we rounded a bend at John Day Dam and were greeted with a spectacular view of the snow covered Mt. Hood in the distance. It was a scene that would play out many times during the ride...
As we closed in on our destination, the Columbia River cuts through the Cascade Mountain range. The slopes on the Oregon and Washington sides of the river are not as steep, and they began to fill with evergreens. By the time we hit Cascade Lakes, the slopes were covered by this vegetation.
We found a campsite for the night and quickly put up our tents, then we were off to explorer the area. No deadlines and no destination... We it historic US-30 heading west towards Portland, where we were greeted by huge crowds and some awesome scenery. Horsetails Falls, Multnomah Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, among others. The Last gem on the route was the Vista House, which lent a birds-eye view of the Columbia River Gorge basin.
Tomorrow, we begin our days on the back roads of the northwest. Pictures later...
Ken was already packed up and ready to go, so I threw everything on the bike as quickly as I could and we were off. After a quick breakfast, it was a fast 170 miles to our next destination. The mileage for the day kept decreasing as we we able to add extra mileage during the days before. The ride today will mark the last day of the outbound rides that were planned to be entirely interstate...
With about 100 miles left on the route to Cascade Locks, we hit the Columbia River at Blalock Canyon. Here, and later at Philippi Canyon, the river had eroded the landscape over time. The canyons were marked by sheer rock walls and, at times, it felt as if I could hold out both arms and scrape the canyon walls with my left hand while testing the river water's temperature with my right. We fallowed right along the water's edge for most of the next 60 miles. At one point during this leg, we rounded a bend at John Day Dam and were greeted with a spectacular view of the snow covered Mt. Hood in the distance. It was a scene that would play out many times during the ride...
As we closed in on our destination, the Columbia River cuts through the Cascade Mountain range. The slopes on the Oregon and Washington sides of the river are not as steep, and they began to fill with evergreens. By the time we hit Cascade Lakes, the slopes were covered by this vegetation.
We found a campsite for the night and quickly put up our tents, then we were off to explorer the area. No deadlines and no destination... We it historic US-30 heading west towards Portland, where we were greeted by huge crowds and some awesome scenery. Horsetails Falls, Multnomah Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, among others. The Last gem on the route was the Vista House, which lent a birds-eye view of the Columbia River Gorge basin.
Tomorrow, we begin our days on the back roads of the northwest. Pictures later...
Tuesday, July 3, 2012
One to Go - July 3
Left today Tremonton at 7:15, under blue skies and cruised I-84 literally by ourselves. In the first 60 miles or so we had remaining in Utah, we passed three semis and had two SUVs pass us. It was a leather jacket/heated handgrip ride for me, and I wished I had put on the chaps before we left, as the temperature was in the lower 60s to start. As it would turn out, we ended up riding in jackets all day...
We no sooner crossed into Idaho, and I see sign that read 'Occasional High Winds Next 19 Miles' atop of another sign that read 'Frequent Blinding Dust Storms. Do not Stop'. Fantastic! What are you supposed to do in a blinding dust storm? Keep on going? I don't want to be the person who came up with that line...
I looked into the distance, and it did look like some sort of dust storm on the horizon. Either that or some smoke from a far-out wild fire... I slowed a bit to take a few pictures when it hit me. A 50 or 60 MPH gust of wind that moved me clear to the other side of the lane in a split second. I grabbed the bars and held on for a white-knuckle ride for the next three or four hours, with a breakfast sandwiched in. The wind was strong the entire route through Idaho, and we didn't see a reprieve from it until we were well north of Boise.
We stopped for a bite to eat in Baker City, which was where our day was slated to end. It was just 1:00 local time, since we had just moved into Pacific Daylight time zone. We decided to put in another 100 miles to Pendleton, Oregon leaving us with just about 170 miles for the morning ride to the Columbia River Gorge in the morning. We need some time out of the saddle and enjoy some of the scenery. The gorge is a perfect place to do that on this trip after a +500 mile day today.
I didn't mention that we did move into Oregon today. One down, one to go...
We no sooner crossed into Idaho, and I see sign that read 'Occasional High Winds Next 19 Miles' atop of another sign that read 'Frequent Blinding Dust Storms. Do not Stop'. Fantastic! What are you supposed to do in a blinding dust storm? Keep on going? I don't want to be the person who came up with that line...
I looked into the distance, and it did look like some sort of dust storm on the horizon. Either that or some smoke from a far-out wild fire... I slowed a bit to take a few pictures when it hit me. A 50 or 60 MPH gust of wind that moved me clear to the other side of the lane in a split second. I grabbed the bars and held on for a white-knuckle ride for the next three or four hours, with a breakfast sandwiched in. The wind was strong the entire route through Idaho, and we didn't see a reprieve from it until we were well north of Boise.
We stopped for a bite to eat in Baker City, which was where our day was slated to end. It was just 1:00 local time, since we had just moved into Pacific Daylight time zone. We decided to put in another 100 miles to Pendleton, Oregon leaving us with just about 170 miles for the morning ride to the Columbia River Gorge in the morning. We need some time out of the saddle and enjoy some of the scenery. The gorge is a perfect place to do that on this trip after a +500 mile day today.
I didn't mention that we did move into Oregon today. One down, one to go...
Entering Oregon (pause at 19 seconds)
Over the Rockies
We have been sticking to the strategy of starting the day early so that we will avoid the hottest part of the day. We were all packed up and headed out of Laramie at 5:45AM. The sun was just starting to peek out of the horizon and the temperature was hovering around sixty. By 8:00 local, we had full bellies and over 100 miles behind us. The next 100 miles seemed to go by just as quick, and they were covered still wearing our jackets.
The route this day has definitely been the best as far as scenery. We were basically heading out of the Rockies and were losing altitude for much of the last part of the ride. I did glimpse at the first section of the route on a AAA map that I had tucked in the saddlebag, and it was rated a green-dot route by them. It surely didn't disappoint as the long, straight asphalt of the past few days began to wind and descend through the foothills. The first 80 miles or so were unspoilt by any billboards and our early departure tended to give us a relief on the traffic, sans a few semis.
I have been out to our western states on 5 or 6 others occasions, but this was the first time I had taken I-80. This route is now my personal favorite fo getting out west quickly. I've been out I-70, but the stretch though Kansas is just unbearable. I followed the od US-66 twice, which mimics I-40/I-44. While nice, that route does not lend itself to getting out west quickly. I have only been on I-90 heading east, but it was mostly a boring ride. That could be because I as heading home if I was heading east and the was a certain amount of dis-interest in the road. I may have to take that route outbound once to have a conclusive opinion, but I sure give a thumbs up on I-80 if traveling a freeway is required.
The best part of the route today had to be I-84, from the intersection of I-80 and east (really north) through Morgan County, Utah. If you look on a map, it looks to be fairly straight through the Monte Cristo Range. It is anything but. Before we hit Ogden,Utah, we were treating to a series of rises and bends and dips for about 8 miles that I have never seen on an interstate back home. There may be fewer roads to ride in this state, but the roads that they have may be real hard to beat!.
We were supposed to end the day in Ogden but, to beat much of the traffic tomorrow, we headed north another 30 miles or so to Tremonton, Utah were I-84 and I-15 split. We pulled in at about 3:00 local time after +420 miles. I almost felt embarrased... We could have gone another couple of hundred, but then we would end up back home too soon. I just have to figure out how to make leaving earlier in the day than I am accustomed to work for us better, although the hot days should be ending soon. Maybe over the next days, we can leave a few hours laters...
The route this day has definitely been the best as far as scenery. We were basically heading out of the Rockies and were losing altitude for much of the last part of the ride. I did glimpse at the first section of the route on a AAA map that I had tucked in the saddlebag, and it was rated a green-dot route by them. It surely didn't disappoint as the long, straight asphalt of the past few days began to wind and descend through the foothills. The first 80 miles or so were unspoilt by any billboards and our early departure tended to give us a relief on the traffic, sans a few semis.
I have been out to our western states on 5 or 6 others occasions, but this was the first time I had taken I-80. This route is now my personal favorite fo getting out west quickly. I've been out I-70, but the stretch though Kansas is just unbearable. I followed the od US-66 twice, which mimics I-40/I-44. While nice, that route does not lend itself to getting out west quickly. I have only been on I-90 heading east, but it was mostly a boring ride. That could be because I as heading home if I was heading east and the was a certain amount of dis-interest in the road. I may have to take that route outbound once to have a conclusive opinion, but I sure give a thumbs up on I-80 if traveling a freeway is required.
The best part of the route today had to be I-84, from the intersection of I-80 and east (really north) through Morgan County, Utah. If you look on a map, it looks to be fairly straight through the Monte Cristo Range. It is anything but. Before we hit Ogden,Utah, we were treating to a series of rises and bends and dips for about 8 miles that I have never seen on an interstate back home. There may be fewer roads to ride in this state, but the roads that they have may be real hard to beat!.
We were supposed to end the day in Ogden but, to beat much of the traffic tomorrow, we headed north another 30 miles or so to Tremonton, Utah were I-84 and I-15 split. We pulled in at about 3:00 local time after +420 miles. I almost felt embarrased... We could have gone another couple of hundred, but then we would end up back home too soon. I just have to figure out how to make leaving earlier in the day than I am accustomed to work for us better, although the hot days should be ending soon. Maybe over the next days, we can leave a few hours laters...
Sunday, July 1, 2012
Through America's Heartland
Hotels.com sucks!! More on that later...
It has been all interstate since we left on Friday. Saturday, we left our hotel in Galesburg, Illinois at 6:30AM so that we could get as many miles behind us before the heat of the day. It had rained the night before, and it was still trying to get us wet right after we saddled up. Out of Galesburg, I-74 heads north until it's junction with I-80. As we traveled this section I could see rain to our west. As we crossed the Mississippi River at Bettendorf, Iowa it was within a few miles of us. We pulled to the side of the road at the next exit, donned our rain gear, and headed out again.
Not one drop of rain fell on us. That rain suit is the best thing that I have ever bought for motorcycling. I can't remember the last time it rained on me when I had it on. I only seem to get wet whenever I have left it at home during a ride.
The strategy of leaving early paid off for us. Until our rain gear came out, we were both riding in jackets with the temperature in the upper 60s, and had about 130 miles behind us before we were in short sleeves again. By 10:00 it was already hot, and I thought we were in for another long day, but the temperature didn't climb much more from there. The air temperature was a good ten degrees lower than Friday. There wasn't as much wind, either...
The rolling hills of the Iowa plains led us to the flat, parched plains of Nebraska and we were making good time. I noticed that it looks like the corn crop is going to suffer this year. Isn't it suppose to be 'knee-high by the Fourth of July'? The crop in much of Nebraska needs some serious help to get there...
Ken did have a couple of personal milestones set on Saturday: His long day in the saddle. We pulled into Kearney, Nebraska for the evening at 6:30 PM. He had never been on a ride that lasted 12 hours before. He also manage to ride the most miles in a day, over 550 miles. Yay, Ken! Half of an Iron Butt!!
The long day on Saturday set us up for what was supposed to be a nice, easy day into Cheyenne, Wyoming on a ride of just 316 miles. The plan was to finish the ride by early afternoon, relax a bit by the hotel pool, and then check out Cheyenne later in the day. It started out just as planned, but it fell apart pretty quick.
At our first gas stop, Ken found himself bleeding profusely from his left pinkie finger. Either he was being honest when he said that he didn't no what happened, or he doesn't want me blogging about it but believe me, the was blood everywhere. A square gauze pad and three strips of duct tape and he was good as new!
The ride out of Kearney was pretty awesome. Except for the last 50 miles or so, the landscape in western Nebraska is completely void of trees. Other than a few cedar bushes here and there. Wheat fields (I believe) for as far as the eye can see and, considering it is also completely flat, that is a long way. As you approach the Wyoming border, you begin to pick up altitude and the landscape changes quite a bit. The wind also began to pick up here as well.
Forty miles after entering Wyoming, we were in Cheyenne and found a hotel with a pool by 1:00. The day was going just as planned, until... The room wasn't ready yet. OK, so we go the Eagle's Nest, hit the local pub with 'the coldest beer in town' according to the lady checking us in. She'll call when the room is ready. By 3:00, we decided that they must have forgotten to call, right. I mean, I spend maybe a couple of hours a year cleaning my house. Surely they could clean one room in a couple of hours. Back at the hotel, I check the room and they hadn't even started. I asked when it might be ready. Ten minutes, they tell me. I ask again at 3:30. They call some help to the front desk and tell them to start cleaning it. I couldn't bite my tongue any longer. After the resulting conversation, I didn't feel I could show my face there any more. That is where Hotels.com comes in...
I reserve a 2-1/2 star hotel in Laramie, Wyoming 45 miles to the west, we hop back on the bikes and knock those miles off of Monday's route. I pulled into the Ramada Inn on the west side of Laramie certain that I was at the wrong place. I knew as much when the people checking in before me were quoted a rate of $49.99 when I had paid $79.99. Unfortunately, I was wrong. I could have gotten the $49.99 had I walked in off of the street , but since I paid for the reservation through Hotels.com, I get to pay $79.99 to stay in an absolute dump. Bastards wouldn't even let me cancel the reservation. I am sure that Hotel.com Customer Service will post the recording of my phone call to them. Search for it on the Internet soon. It is a gem!
One more hot day, then things look to cool down. After a 387 mile day on Sunday, we'll travel nearly as many before we arrive in Ogden, Utah on Monday.
It has been all interstate since we left on Friday. Saturday, we left our hotel in Galesburg, Illinois at 6:30AM so that we could get as many miles behind us before the heat of the day. It had rained the night before, and it was still trying to get us wet right after we saddled up. Out of Galesburg, I-74 heads north until it's junction with I-80. As we traveled this section I could see rain to our west. As we crossed the Mississippi River at Bettendorf, Iowa it was within a few miles of us. We pulled to the side of the road at the next exit, donned our rain gear, and headed out again.
Not one drop of rain fell on us. That rain suit is the best thing that I have ever bought for motorcycling. I can't remember the last time it rained on me when I had it on. I only seem to get wet whenever I have left it at home during a ride.
The strategy of leaving early paid off for us. Until our rain gear came out, we were both riding in jackets with the temperature in the upper 60s, and had about 130 miles behind us before we were in short sleeves again. By 10:00 it was already hot, and I thought we were in for another long day, but the temperature didn't climb much more from there. The air temperature was a good ten degrees lower than Friday. There wasn't as much wind, either...
The rolling hills of the Iowa plains led us to the flat, parched plains of Nebraska and we were making good time. I noticed that it looks like the corn crop is going to suffer this year. Isn't it suppose to be 'knee-high by the Fourth of July'? The crop in much of Nebraska needs some serious help to get there...
Iowa Plains
Ken did have a couple of personal milestones set on Saturday: His long day in the saddle. We pulled into Kearney, Nebraska for the evening at 6:30 PM. He had never been on a ride that lasted 12 hours before. He also manage to ride the most miles in a day, over 550 miles. Yay, Ken! Half of an Iron Butt!!
The long day on Saturday set us up for what was supposed to be a nice, easy day into Cheyenne, Wyoming on a ride of just 316 miles. The plan was to finish the ride by early afternoon, relax a bit by the hotel pool, and then check out Cheyenne later in the day. It started out just as planned, but it fell apart pretty quick.
At our first gas stop, Ken found himself bleeding profusely from his left pinkie finger. Either he was being honest when he said that he didn't no what happened, or he doesn't want me blogging about it but believe me, the was blood everywhere. A square gauze pad and three strips of duct tape and he was good as new!
Nebraska Plains
Forty miles after entering Wyoming, we were in Cheyenne and found a hotel with a pool by 1:00. The day was going just as planned, until... The room wasn't ready yet. OK, so we go the Eagle's Nest, hit the local pub with 'the coldest beer in town' according to the lady checking us in. She'll call when the room is ready. By 3:00, we decided that they must have forgotten to call, right. I mean, I spend maybe a couple of hours a year cleaning my house. Surely they could clean one room in a couple of hours. Back at the hotel, I check the room and they hadn't even started. I asked when it might be ready. Ten minutes, they tell me. I ask again at 3:30. They call some help to the front desk and tell them to start cleaning it. I couldn't bite my tongue any longer. After the resulting conversation, I didn't feel I could show my face there any more. That is where Hotels.com comes in...
I reserve a 2-1/2 star hotel in Laramie, Wyoming 45 miles to the west, we hop back on the bikes and knock those miles off of Monday's route. I pulled into the Ramada Inn on the west side of Laramie certain that I was at the wrong place. I knew as much when the people checking in before me were quoted a rate of $49.99 when I had paid $79.99. Unfortunately, I was wrong. I could have gotten the $49.99 had I walked in off of the street , but since I paid for the reservation through Hotels.com, I get to pay $79.99 to stay in an absolute dump. Bastards wouldn't even let me cancel the reservation. I am sure that Hotel.com Customer Service will post the recording of my phone call to them. Search for it on the Internet soon. It is a gem!
One more hot day, then things look to cool down. After a 387 mile day on Sunday, we'll travel nearly as many before we arrive in Ogden, Utah on Monday.
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